If you suddenly start sneezing, your eyes itch and your nose won't stop running every spring in Tokyo, you're not alone — and you're probably not catching a cold. This is kafunsho (花粉症), Japan's famous hay fever. It's so common that close to half of Tokyo residents are affected, and plenty of newcomers get it for the first time after moving here, even if they never had allergies back home. The good news: while there's no magic cure, a few simple habits make a real difference.
What it is and when it hits
Kafunsho is an allergy to pollen. In and around Tokyo the main culprits are sugi (スギ, Japanese cedar) and hinoki (ヒノキ, Japanese cypress), both planted heavily in the surrounding mountains after the war. The season runs roughly from February into early May: cedar pollen tends to be heaviest in March, and cypress pollen takes over and peaks around April. Counts are usually worst on warm, dry, windy days — and often spike the day after rain. Typical symptoms are sneezing, a runny or blocked nose, and itchy, watery eyes.
Check the pollen forecast
Before you head out, it helps to know how much pollen is in the air that day. The Japan Meteorological Agency (気象庁) explains how forecasts work and points to the weather data behind them, and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government runs an allergy information site with measured pollen counts for the city. Many weather apps and TV forecasts also show a daily pollen level for your area in spring. Use it to plan: on a high-pollen day, you might keep the windows shut and save errands for after rain.
Everyday defences
- Wear a well-fitting mask outdoors — Tokyo health authorities note that even an ordinary mask cuts the pollen you breathe in substantially when it fits closely.
- Add wrap-around or pollen glasses to protect your eyes on heavy days.
- When you get home, leave pollen at the door: brush it off your coat, then wash your hands, face and even your hair, and rinse your nose and throat.
- Choose smooth coats (cotton or polyester) over fuzzy wool, which traps more pollen.
- Keep windows mostly closed on high-pollen days; a lace curtain helps if you do open them, and run an air purifier indoors.
- Dry laundry and futons indoors during peak weeks so they don't collect pollen outside.
This guide is general orientation, not medical advice. It can't tell you which medicine is right for you or how to use it. For anything you'd take or apply, ask a pharmacist at a drugstore, and see a doctor for stronger or ongoing symptoms — never copy a dose from a friend or the internet.
Relief from the drugstore and the doctor
Japanese drugstores (ドラッグストア) stock a wide range of over-the-counter hay fever products in spring. Staff often include a licensed pharmacist who can listen to your symptoms and point you to something suitable — tell them it's for kafunsho (花粉症), and don't hesitate to ask. If your symptoms are heavy, last for weeks, or aren't controlled by what you buy over the counter, see a doctor. An 耳鼻科 / 耳鼻咽喉科 (ENT clinic) or an allergy clinic can assess you and discuss stronger or longer-term options. National and Tokyo health guidance suggests it's worth getting set up before the season really ramps up, rather than waiting until you're miserable. It's also worth knowing that seeing a doctor — especially an 耳鼻科 (ENT clinic) — and getting medication through national health insurance can sometimes work out cheaper than buying over-the-counter products at a drugstore, so it can be worth being seen by a professional rather than relying on OTC options alone.
- I never had allergies before — can I really develop hay fever in Japan?
- Yes. Many people react to Japanese cedar and cypress pollen for the first time after living here a few seasons, because the allergy can build up with repeated exposure. Getting it as an adult newcomer is common.
- When is the worst of it?
- In Tokyo, roughly March for cedar and around April for cypress, within an overall season of about February to early May. Warm, dry, windy days are usually the heaviest.
- Do I need a Japanese health card to be seen?
- You'll generally want your health insurance card (健康保険証) at a clinic. A drugstore visit needs no card — you just buy what you choose, and you can ask the pharmacist there for guidance.
- Are masks actually worth it?
- They genuinely help reduce how much pollen you breathe in, especially a snug-fitting one, and they're cheap and easy. Pair them with eye protection and washing pollen off at home for the best effect.